About Us

BEHIND THE COOPS
Body types of rabbits are all posed the same way.... Before you think I have fallen off my
rocker, let Think about it. In a properly posed Holland Lop, where are their feet versus eye and
stifle? Think about a Tan or Spot's top line. Where are their feet lined up in order to see the
beautiful curvature of their spine? Himalayans are the same in that the front feet are lined up
with the eye and the hind feet are lined up with the stifle. Posing is incredibly important when
judging. It can make or break the rabbit. It is so important not to over or under pose a rabbit.
You can cover up faults by bunching them up too much or miss a pretty darn typey animal by
not posing them at all. Each animal should be posed the same each time. Pulling them out and
plopping them on the table ISN'T being posed the same. I have Holland's,that make a perfect
example for this. Some are shy, but will pose if played with for a little bit. Some are high
strung and come out of the coops like a bucking bronco. The ones that have a long forelimb
can't help but to sit up (but that's another topic for another time).Now that you have this
concept down, let me add a part B. After much experimenting, I can have a rabbit stretched
out too far with its legs still in the right spot. Take a rabbit that is normally very typey when
properly bunched and squared. Now, take her and plop her out on the table. Now this short
rabbit with a normally beautiful arch now looks long and flat. Go ahead, try it...experiment.
Isn't it our job as judges to make the rabbit look as good as it structurally allows without
creating or hiding faults? Commercial and compact rabbits should still be bunched. Not to the
point of having it's hind feet below it's eyeballs. Now that's a little exaggeration to make my
point. It's an art. Keep practicing and, whatever you do, do it consistently. Email me if you
have a suggestion of what you'd like to see talked about. Otherwise, I'll start talking about
Bone.
Joy><>

Whats New In The Barn

Pish Pawsh LopZ*P2L Creations*Flutterby French* Lops & Bundles Of Joy

Rabbit Care 101
By Jenn
I will be adding to this article from time to time. I want to start
out with my background and experience. I have been raising
rabbits since 1986 and have been ARBA showing since the
1990's. I have been a 4-H member/leader for 20 years now.
What advice I give you is MY OWN EXPERIENCE. Other
breeders may agree or disagree and that is their choice. I will
tell you what I know to be tried and true and what has worked
for me over the years. I hope you find it helpful.

FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
Rabbits can have nearly any
fruit/veg./grain "treat food" as long as it
does not have any butter/salt/dressing
ect. on it. As with kids try a small amount
and see if they like it or have any
reactions to it. If you over feed treat food
they will get diarrhea. If this happens
stop giving them treats, reduce pellets
and give them hay. Depending on your
breed/size of rabbit you will get 16%-18%
protein rabbit ration pellets. Buy these
pellets at a farm store NOT pet store or
supermarket. Farm store pellets will be
fresher and be better quality. Store the
pellets in an air tight container to
preserve the freshness. DO NOT GET
THEM WET!!! If the pellets do get wet
disscard them immediately!!! Mold can
ruin pellets and hay/straw so inspect
anything you give your rabbit. Depending
on your breed/size of rabbit they will have
different nutritional needs. A good rule of
thumb is feed one ounce of pellets per
pound of rabbit. If your rabbit is not
finishing its feed daily decrease the
amount. (*NOTE If your rabbit stops
eating/drinking that is a serious sign of
illness contact a trusted local breeder in
your area. Yogurt, and electrolytes are a
good start for a sick rabbit as are
dandelions, blackberry leaves, and
parcily.) I find that using a tin can as a
scoop is the best way to measure the
serving amount. I use a mandarin orange
size can approx. 5oz for small breeds a
tuna can approx. 8oz for medium size
breeds and a XL chicken/tuna 12+oz can
for my large breeds. You can split the
ration into 2 feedings but I prefer to feed
once a day. You can mix in raisins, oats,
black oil sunflower seeds, and that sort of
thing but it will most likely lead to digging
in the feed to get the goodies and
wasting, so feed extras on top of pellets
or all together in a separate dish. I prefer
to use a loc-crock/ez-crock (available on
line at KW Cages or WoodyWabbits.Com)
This serves multiple purposes. First they
will have a hard time tipping it and
second, it is easily adjustable so you can
put it just high enough that the rabbit can
reach in to eat but have a hard time
getting paws all the way in to dig/waste
the feed.
(to be continued...)

~*4-H*~
SHOWMANSHIP
I This is the part of the 4-H year for new learning experiences and practice
before County Fair in the Summer. I hope you will take something new with
you from my Showmanship table. I, being a 4-H Alumni (1986) have been
on your side of the judging table and I have always thought it a challenge
to master the exact preferences and expectations each judge has for
his/her Showmanship table. So I will now give you a few of my thoughts
and theories about Showmanship. You are welcome to e-mail me with any
questions you might have.

The 4-H Motto is "To Make The Best Better" I will ask questions from your
4-H book in which the NEW EDITION has ARBA information. Any questions
I ask that are not found in the 4-H book can be found in the ARBA Standard
of Perfection. I will NOT count against anyone for not knowing this
additional information. HOWEVER, IF YOU ARE TO "MAKE THE BEST
BETTER" I FEEL YOU SHOULD NOT LIMIT YOUR KNOWLEDGE TO 1
SOURCE OF INFORMATION. That being said..... Here are some basics I
want you to know before coming to my table.

MY MOTTO "LUCK'S GOT NOTHIN TO DO WITH IT"
(STUDY STUDY STUDY PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE)
Junior and Novice questions will be easier but will still cover some of these topics.

Know the breed, variety, age/show room class, and sex of your rabbit. Also
know something that makes your breed special and or it's History. Know at
least one breed specific disqualification. Know showroom weight min and
max, body and fur type for your rabbit, It is helpful if you also know this
information for 1-3 other breeds. I will ask you to name as many of the
other breeds of rabbits on the table as you can and or have you switch
rabbits and have you tell me as much as you know about your neighbors
rabbit, so LOOK at the other breeds when you get to the table and ask
your fellow 4-Hers about their rabbits before you get to the table. Study
with friends and make new study friends at the shows this is not County
Fair this is not a Club competition help each other out!!!

Know the 5 body types and the fur types. Know general rabbit diseases
and ailments like Snuffels/Pasturella, Sore Hocks, Fur&Ear Mites. Know
proper nutrition, housing, sanitation, and safety for your rabbit you can
read my rabbit care 101 article on the left side of this page.

Know about Sportsmanship, Herdsmanship and the Pillars of Character.
Know what the 4 H's stand for and the 4-H Pledge

I will expect you to have practiced safe handling of your rabbit and will ask
you to name, point out, and "show me" body parts. If I ask you to "tell me"
then you should tell me as much as you know about the question I have
asked. IF I ask you to "show me" please show me NO further information
is need at this time. IF I ask you to do two or more things at the same time
please do them in the order I ask. Make Eye Contact & SMILE!!! I am NOT
a scary Judge ;o) I will be equally impressed with a members rabbit that is
holding still and cooperating as with a member who is doing their best to
calmly control an unruly rabbit. This does NOT mean you can slack off on
practicing your handling skills but I do realize how tough it is to contain a
rabbit that may be fine at home but nervous/scared when it gets to the
show table. Movement when handling your rabbit needs to be SLOW and
SMOOTH do not rush. Movement should be made in 1/4 turns with out
dragging the toenails on the carpet. I personally prefer if you pick up your
rabbit by its scruff at the back of the neck ALONG WITH one or more of its
ears and supporting its bottom. Also and I cannot stress enough if your
rabbit is holding still and behaving LEAVE IT BE!!! I am referring to those
who constantly "mess" with their rabbits and are not keeping eye contact
with the Judge. If I "look over" your rabbit and then give it back to you
repose nose to tail. I will add to this article from time to time, but this
should give you an inside scoop to what goes on on my table

LUCKS GOT NOTHIN TO DO WITH IT
STUDY STUDY STUDY PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE
MAKE THE BEST BETTER!!!